Just as Israeli strikes on Iran’s military and nuclear sites killed several top military officials and nuclear scientists on June 13th, members of Nashville’s Jewish community were on the ground in Israel. Almost two dozen people were participating on a national Birthright Onward trip, and some were just visiting friends and family.
Nightly bombings sent people running to shelters. During the day, exhausted travelers tried to carry on a normal routine. With flights cancelled and the airspace closed, the only routes out of the country were by land or by sea. Some in the community left on cruise ships to Cyprus, followed by long airplane trips back home. Some are still in Israel, trying to cope and waiting for flights to begin again, or for the next ship.
Below are some reflections from these members of our community. Note that some people answered specific questions.
Wedding to War
By Sharon and Moises Paz
Our cousin, who served in the IDF and his fiancé, also Israeli, invited us to their wedding in Israel on June 10th. We had not been back to Israel in 10 years.
We booked our flight on United Airlines for June 4th from Newark to Tel Aviv only to have it canceled four days before the flight. Determined to go we rebooked with Delta for the same date.
It was seamless. We landed in Tel Aviv, took the high-speed train to Jerusalem, then the escalators up about 10 flights and exited to a bustling downtown Jerusalem. It was the day of the gay pride parade, and the light rail was out of commission due to scheduled repairs. We used GETT (Israeli Uber system) to take a long cab ride through traffic to our hotel.
Not wanting to miss a second, we made our way to Machene Yehudah, the outdoor market in Jerusalem and loaded up with our favorite heathy veggies, nuts, fruits, & chocolate Halva. We visited with our grandson spending a year in Yeshiva, walked to the Kotel on Erev Shabbat and we walked to the Fuchsberg Center for Conservative Judaism on Shabbat morning. On Sunday we visited the Hatzala (volunteer emergency services) offices. We saw the ambulance motorcycle that Bernie and Maria Pargh dedicated in honor of Beit Miriam School, and we felt so proud of our families and students who donated over $3,000 of their tzedakah money to Hatzalah this year!
Monday June 9th, we left for Tel Aviv for a 7:30 am guided tour of the Gaza envelope. We witnessed the memorial at the Nova festival site, the over 1500 burnt out cars, the memorial to those who died in the police station in Sderot, and saw the shattered kibbutzim from our van.
We made a quick stop at a “feeding station” created by volunteers to provide food and snacks for soldiers on break from Gaza and had a chance to chat with some soldiers doing mileuim, reserve military service, in Gaza. We gave tzedakah to help the woman who cooked all the food for free which was especially meaningful to us.
The wedding started the following evening in Yafo at a beautiful venue called Bayit Al Hayam. It was a rooftop wedding overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. We had to wait for the Muslim call to prayer from one of the local mosques prior to starting the wedding. Right before the chuppah, sirens went off and everybody went downstairs to the basement, until we got the all clear. It was the first of many sirens since we arrived. Other than the delays for muslim prayers and incoming missiles, the wedding was beautiful at sunset over Tel Aviv.
Israel is truly a country of mixed emotions. Everyone is cautious and life goes on with mutual support and a sense of purpose and resilience. Everyone agrees about Iran. So, as tired as everyone is of living with the threat of daily missiles, running to safe rooms, and COVID like restrictions, there is no choice about this war.
From Tel Aviv, we went to Kibbutz En Harod to visit family, then to Mitzpeh Netufah to visit a friend from Savannah, and to Haifa to visit Mazalit Haim, professor of Hebrew Literature at Vanderbilt where we were warmly greeted with a lavish lunch and a-walk on the beach.
Then it was off to Moshav Shdema to spend what we thought to be the last three and a half days of our stay in Israel. Our house on the moshav has a mamad (safe room) that we share with a family and their three young children.
Then everything changed. From Thursday June 12th until the writing of this article we have been in the mamad (safe room) three or so times a night plus some days for 10-to-20-minute stays prior to receiving the all clear text and returning to bed or our usual activities. The Israeli communication system to alert people is unbelievable. It identifies specific danger areas, so we know what alert applies to our specific area. I have to admit having anxiety the first couple of days. Not knowing when and where the missiles would strike, if, and when, we would be able to leave, if it was safe to roam about and explore the area and keeping glued to news 24/7 takes getting used to.
But we are adjusting to our new normal. Even thinking about leaving Israel is so emotional. Now that we are here it feels like it is where we should be. We have been exploring shops, shopping malls, and even had a tire change on our rental car.
We’ve made some friends in the moshav, been invited to shabbat dinner and have had many conversations about potential missile attacks and which way Trump’s pending decision to get more involved will go.
We meet our neighbors in the duplex, and their kids nightly in a the mamad (safe room) for conversation and sometimes a nap. When we receive the all clear we return to our bedrooms.
Our daily walks turned into drives to Ashdod and Ashkelon for grocery shopping. We even found an organic market on our moshav. Lately we have seen more traffic. Yesterday it was announced that the stores could open. On our daily exploration trips, we experienced more shoppers and shopping centers are getting busy at least in our area of the country as life is returning to some normalcy. Schools are closed and tourist attractions are still closed. Everyone is attentive to potential alerts and locating shelter.
This week with some local “new” friends, we served as volunteers preparing food bags to be distributed by the food bank to those in need. Next week we are scheduled to do similar volunteer work with Leket Israel at a food and supply distribution center near Tel Aviv and hope to meet up with Sam Jacobson, a former WES/Beit Miriam student and madrich (counselor) who is winding up miluim. We feel so fortunate to have the accommodations we have and not to be in a major population center.
And still Israel is a small country.
We very much appreciate hearing from friends, family, and colleagues via WhatsApp, text messages and even FaceTime.
Rachel Stern, Birthright Participant:
1. Was this your first trip to Israel?
I first came to Israel when I was nine years old for my brother’s bar mitzvah. I don’t remember much, but I do remember loving it. My second trip was my birthright trip in September 2024, which ended up being life changing. Visiting places like the Nova site during such a heavy time made everything more real and meaningful. It showed me just how deeply this land holds joy, heartbreak, and strength all at once.
After my original Birthright trip in September and the events of October 7th, I felt this pull to come back and be of service. I had already participated in an art project through Partnership2gether and the Jewish Agency called, “Hinneni,” where I was connected with a family whose loved one was killed on October 7th. I was paired with Ori Locker Z”L. When I met his aunt in Tel Aviv to deliver the portrait, it felt like we had known each other for years. This trip gave me the chance to deliver the portrait to her in person, which was incredibly emotional and meaningful. More than anything, I felt a strong desire to contribute to Israel in a tangible way and to be with others who care about this place as much as I do. Doing mitzvot, helping others, and staying connected to the people here felt like the most important thing I could do.
3. How are you feeling now?
It’s been up and down ever since the war started. As I speak, I am in line to get on one of a few more flights home. I’ve been feeling very overwhelmed. I can tell my nervous system is stretched to its limit, so I’ve had to be extra mindful and give myself space when needed. Sometimes I’ll get hit with a sudden wave of emotion and must cry, and other times I feel completely numb. I’ve learned that both are normal ways of processing.
It’s been a huge growth experience for me and has allowed me to be more in touch with my mind and body and how to speak to yourself in times of crisis. As painful as some moments have been, I believe this was the best experience I could have had to grow as a young woman and I’m leaving Israel stronger, more empowered, and refined.
One of the hardest moments was on the cruise ship when we were evacuating. I had a panic attack because I couldn’t contact anyone and felt completely isolated. But during that moment, I started thinking about the hostages. I realized if ten hours without control felt that hard for me, I can only imagine what they are going through. That thought didn’t take away my pain, but it helped me feel grounded and connected to something bigger. This was certainly an overarching theme of the trip.
4. What experience has made the biggest impact on you during this trip?
Meeting Ori Locker’s aunt and delivering his portrait was incredibly powerful. She welcomed me with so much love, like I was part of her family. We cried, we shared stories, and she gave me a glimpse into the kind of grief that stays with you long after the world moves on. Being in that space with her reminded me that showing up and holding someone’s pain is sometimes the most sacred thing you can do. Beyond that, volunteering had a huge impact on me. When someone asked me to describe the trip in one word, I said “presence.” As someone who deals with anxiety, volunteering helped me get out of my head and focus on others. That kind of presence was deeply healing.
5. Would you consider returning to Israel in the future?
Without a doubt. Even though we had to evacuate, and it was stressful, I felt sad to leave. My mom was so scared and probably wishes I wouldn’t return, but I feel like I belong there. Israel is the one place where I don’t feel like I have to explain or hide my Jewish identity. When we landed in Frankfurt, we were told to hide anything that made us visibly Jewish. I understand why, but it hit me hard. Less than a hundred years ago, my grandparents had to do that in Europe, and now I’m doing the same. That contrast made me realize even more how important it is that Israel exists and that we continue showing up for it.
6. What are your overall thoughts about the current situation in Israel and the region?
I am praying that real change can happen in the region, starting with the fall of the Iranian regime. While it was difficult to be in Israel during this time, I feel honored that we were there. Being on the ground gave me a real sense of what people are living through. It reminded me how much truth can get lost when we’re only watching from far away. I believe we were meant to be there so we could come back and speak about it with honesty. This is history unfolding in real time, and I feel lucky to have witnessed even a small part of it. I pray for peace, for healing, and for a future where we don’t have to live with so much fear.
7. Is there anything else you would like to add or share about your experience?
There was a woman at the Nova car cemetery who said something that stuck with me: “We fall because we are human. We get up quickly because we are Jewish.” That line became a theme for this trip. There were so many emotional highs and lows running to bomb shelters, dancing in the shelter afterward, lining up for evacuation, laughing with new friends, crying from exhaustion. Some days I felt everything at once. But through all of it, I kept thinking about how important it is to get back up and keep going. This experience showed me what resilience really looks like, and it gave me a deeper sense of pride in being part of something bigger than myself. I feel changed, and I’ll carry that with me always.
Cantor Josh Goldberg, Birthright participant:
This was my third trip. My last trip to Israel was a congregational one right before the war broke out in summer of 2023. Ever since then, I had been wanting to return as soon as I could do do something, anything, to help everyone impacted by the war. As soon as I heard Ziv was leading the charge for a volunteer trip with young adults in Nashville, I was immediately interested!
Right now, I am still a little tired and trying to conserve energy—turns out not sleeping through the night for a week due to rocket-fire can really affect your sleep! Like many in our group, I am feeling grateful to be home and in a safe environment but also feeling a bit of survivor’s guilt. None of us really wanted to leave Israel and all the people there before doing everything we set out to do as volunteers. Many visitors are still trying to leave, and remarkably, many Israelis stuck abroad are still clamoring to get back. Even during a time of active warfare, they can’t wait to get back to their families and communities.
What experience has made the biggest impact on you during this trip?
The resilience of the Israeli people, which we witnessed firsthand, will stick with us forever. Despite every bomb, every setback, every reason they have to live in despair, they wake up every day and choose joy and life. This was evident how even after a night peppered with rocket-fire and shelter warnings, as soon as morning came and things cleared up, the coffee shops, and beaches of Tel Aviv slowly opened back up, and the city came to life. One quote that stands out to me from our trip was “We fall down because we are human; we get back up quickly because we’re Jewish.”
Would you consider returning to Israel in the future?
I will definitely return to Israel. Obviously, I would prefer to go during a less chaotic time, but not a single person in our cohort regrets going on this trip despite the poor timing of escalation with Iran.
What are your overall thoughts about the current situation in Israel and the region?
It is tragic to see all the damage, destruction, and loss of life incurred with every barrage of missiles in Israel. It’s clear how much Israel values life by how much resources and effort they make to keep their people safe. However, even with the Iron Dome, and all the many bomb shelters throughout each neighborhood, they are not impervious to attack. I hope and pray that Israel’s (and now the United States’) decision to attack Iran’s nuclear capabilities will be a net positive for Israel and the world in the long run, even though the fallout in the meantime has been devastating.
Is there anything else you would like to add or share about your experience?
This experience has really galvanized our support for and love for Israel. I hope that with what we have now experienced and internalized, we can continue to reframe the narrative going forward about Israel and its role in the Middle east as a beacon for justice, democracy, and hope.
Eva Marquis, Birthright participant:
Since October 7th, I’ve felt a deep sense of helplessness and grief. I had been searching for a meaningful way to channel those emotions into action. Israel has always held a central place in my heart as the homeland of the Jewish people and a symbol of our strength and self-determination. In the wake of such tragedy, I felt an even stronger pull toward her. So, when this opportunity to volunteer in Israel came up, I didn’t hesitate for a second.
Was this your first trip to Israel?
This was my second trip to Israel. I first visited on a classic Birthright trip in July 2022. Being based in Tel Aviv this time gave me the chance to experience so much more of the city, which was overflowing with pride and unity. Everywhere we went, yellow flags, ribbons, and “Bring Them Home” signs honored the hostages still held in Gaza. This visit felt entirely different from my first. So much has changed in the past three years, and I returned with an even deeper pride in and connection to the land of Israel, along with a renewed commitment to advocate for her however I can.
How are you doing at this moment?
Exhausted, but hopeful and grateful. Our journey home was long and stressful, from Tel Aviv to the Dead Sea, Ashdod, Cyprus, Cologne, Frankfurt, Atlanta, and finally Nashville. But the time we spent volunteering and simply being present with our people gave me a renewed sense of purpose. Despite the criticism and hate Israel faces, I believe she will emerge from this war stronger and more resolute as the Jewish homeland. The way Israelis help one another and continue to show strength through adversity is truly extraordinary.
During Shabbat, a few of us walked to Hostage Square in Tel Aviv. The memorial was powerful: photos of the hostages lined every surface, a Shabbat table stood with empty yellow chairs, a large screen displayed the number of days and hours since the hostages were taken, and a baby grand piano honored Alon Ohel, a gifted musician still held in Gaza. One of the most chilling moments was walking through a small replica of a Hamas tunnel, complete with sounds of gunfire and explosions. In just 15 seconds, the simulated experience offered a haunting glimpse of the unbearable conditions our hostages endure. On our way back to the hostel, we passed through a nearby park. Families played in the stream, friends picnicked, and dogs lounged in the sun. The air was filled with laughter and life, without a phone in sight. Even as hearts break for the hostages and those lost on October 7th, it is this spirit, the Jewish people’s love for life, that will carry us forward. We choose joy, we choose community, and we choose resilience.
In a heartbeat. I would gladly volunteer again, whether through Birthright or another organization. Leaving Israel was incredibly difficult, even though it was the right decision given the escalation with Iran. Since returning home, I’ve felt a strong pull to go back, to be with our people, to support displaced families, and to help businesses affected by the recent missile strikes. A piece of my heart is in Israel, and I look forward to the day I can return.
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